You cannot stop the waves
but you can learn to surf ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Surfing is the most blissful
experience you can have on this planet, a taste of heaven
Out of water, I am nothing
The best surfer out there is the one having the most fun
Surfing expresses...
a pure yearning for visceral, physical contact with the natural world
It's like the mafia
Once you're in, you're in. There's no getting out.